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Scenery and obstacles flats

 
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kaltorak

Deuce


Joined: 20 Jun 2008
Posts: 160

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 2:37 pm    Post subject: Scenery and obstacles flats Reply with quote

I love cardboard minis (a.k.a. Figure flats).

I have monsters, heroes and so on.

But I find of little use floorplans, because my scenarios always require some very specific location that floorplans don't have.

So I draw a (very bad sketched) map on a battlemat and I do here my fights.

When I feel very lazy I use books, dices and so on to avoid drawing the map.

The things I miss a lot (and I gladily buy) are flats of 2D scenery and obstacles (rocks, trees, walls, pool, debris and so on) to spice up my fights.

What do you think about that? Any of you have the same need?
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Murgh Bpurn

Deuce


Joined: 11 Oct 2008
Posts: 49
Location: Plymouth, UK.

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try searching the Dundjinni forums, RPGMapshare and the CUSAC files at Gamesmasters Apprentice amongst others! Smile
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Jordan Peacock

Artist


Joined: 20 Jun 2008
Posts: 152
Location: Orlando, Florida

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've run into a similar problem with scenery, even though I tend to put together "Hirst Arts" 3D scenery for my own games. Although there's considerable potential to make very detailed and specific scenery pieces that look really cool, the more detailed and specific I make the terrain piece, the less likely I am to be able to use it again later. Therefore, I tend to make more "generic" floor sections. For my most recent constructions, I've even skipped bothering with adding walls to my dungeon sections, because that only makes it harder to line the pieces up together as I please.

When I've made or acquired items to represent crates, control panels, pools, treasure chests, etc., I prefer to leave them "self-standing," so that I can put them in my layout wherever I please (and leave open the possibility of removing them - since PCs can be very destructive with the environment), rather than gluing them down permanently.

I've had a similar, though mixed, reaction with floor tiles. More "generic" floor tiles are easier to use for a wider range of situations. Having details on a floor tile can, in an ideal situation, help to enrichen things - but it can also detract, if the fit isn't perfect. For instance, early on when I had only a very few floor tile pieces to work with, several of them had depictions of skulls, pools of blood, etc., in the corners - appropriate, perhaps, for a typical dungeon, but not so much if I wanted to use this same layout to represent the interior of a king's castle or a temple (unless, that is, it's a castle or temple where bodies are left to rot in the corners as a matter of routine).

Similarly, "Doom: The Board Game" is a great source for sci-fi corridors (die-cut cardboard pieces that link together) ... except that most of them are decorated with conspicuously large blood smears. That's just fine for representing a base overrun by zombies or carnivorous aliens, but it's a nuisance when I want to use them for other settings and a player asks, "Is there really a huge blood smear there?" and I have to say, "No, please ignore it."

On the other hand, there have been times when some of those added details have been useful. I often use pieces I've acquired from board games for something other than their original purpose - the "Doom" board game mentioned above for instance, but also "Betrayal at the House on the Hill." "Betrayal"'s room pieces are far from 25mm scale, but I've used them to make a sort of "mini-map" representation of a much larger house. For my purposes, I've just assumed that what's depicted on the tile is actually in the room; unfortunately, since the tiles depict a wrecked old house with lots of bloodstains here and there, its uses are limited, but for a haunted house adventure, it works just fine. Players have sometimes looked at the tile and noticed details, then asked if that's really there - and I confirm that, sure, there's a chair that you can move to try to block the door with, for instance - and worked with it.

I'm not quite settled on what I would see as IDEAL for floor tiles. I can see how it would be useful to depict obstacles on a floor tile for a very specific adventure, but I've played in games where people failed to notice obstacles because - after all - it's just a flat illustration on a flat board. (I have a similar problem when playing Robo-Rally, and people failing to notice walls depicted on the board; the artwork is a bit "busy" in places.) Right now, I think my preference is to have floor tiles that have some nice textures, and which can be arranged in different ways, but which are more-or-less "generic": That is, it represents a cavern or a dungeon or a cobwebby old house or whatever, but it doesn't need to have an excess of specific details. (Gratuitous skulls and blood splats in every corner, or depictions of golden treasure - I can probably do without those as part of the "background.")

I prefer to have any "furnishings" as separate pieces that I can cut out separately and add to the layout as markers. Even if they're just flat "top-down" views of tables, vehicles, etc., I can make them "pop" visually from the floor tiles and give a bare suggestion of depth by gluing them onto cardboard, foam core, or even a piece of thin insulation board. (It also makes them easier to pick up than a flimsy little scrap of paper, and helps to add a bit more weight to protect against scattering.)
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TAG Steve

Artist


Joined: 15 Jun 2008
Posts: 377
Location: Shetland UK

PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am messing around with fractal mapper 8. making 6 x 6 squares of different floor/ground types with added bits of terrain eg tables, chairs and the like which means they can be for anything I want.
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daran

Five


Joined: 22 Jun 2008
Posts: 779
Location: Westgate-On-Sea, UK

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TAG Steve wrote:
I am messing around with fractal mapper 8. making 6 x 6 squares of different floor/ground types with added bits of terrain eg tables, chairs and the like which means they can be for anything I want.


Anything postworthy? The terrain prints you showed me were pretty good.
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TAG Steve

Artist


Joined: 15 Jun 2008
Posts: 377
Location: Shetland UK

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done a pile, but they are on the external harddrive at work, will show you some Monday so you can see what you think Embarassed
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pansophy

No Cards!


Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys,

I usually use Dundjinni for Battlemaps. A basic map (floors, walls, doors) takes me about 5 Minutes to make and print. I you want to add some "feeling" it can take anything - from 1 hour to days. I usually stick with one day per Battlemap - a time frame I set for myself not to get lost in too much detail.

I have done about 60 maps so far, most generic ones or modern ones (not pulp ones). Setting specific ones are: the gas station with a bit of the parkin place for Zombie run (including the shop), a church for Howling Blizzard, a modern Inn, a 2 Bedroom house and the Bunker site for the first mission of the Necropolis 2350 rule book.

Please find the links below, but every map is in 130dpi and about 5 to 20 MB large. If somebody needs a specific map, he can contact me as well.

I do not like to use 3D terrain, because of storing limitations. Printing can be done by a professional printing service or by ink jet (use a good one with an ink tank per colour - saves money!).
After printing the battlemaps, cut them, then glue them on 5mm cardboard or similar. Cut the cardboard again and you have nice Battle map pieces you can put together as you like.
Or cut the printed battlemaps and laminate them, cut them again - so you can draw on it and mark additional terrain features.
For additional terrain pieces you can also print out these features, cutting them out, glue them on thicker paper and simply put them onto the map. You can fixate them to the map by using "blue gum"- it leaves no traces when removing the additional terrain pieces.

If interested I can post more maps as I create them. Please, no commercial use, because some artwork is not freeware. Everything is allowed for private use though.

Be aware: I'm still uploading the maps, finish time is about 5h after this post!

Battlemaps (10x8 inch, print on A4 paper)
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Gas1.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Gas2.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Gas3.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Gas4.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Necro%20Bunker%20w%3A%20tank.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Battlefield%20p1.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Battlefield%20p2.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/2%20Bedroom%20House.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Modern%20Inn%20BM.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wilderness-noTrees%20200dpi.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wild-GrassSparse-SomeTrees.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wild-Bushland.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wild-GrassSparse-DeadTrees.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wild-GrassSparse.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wilds-deadTrees.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Wild-Jungle.bmp

50 Minutes work:
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Room-Tiles-Plain.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/RoomSmall-Tiles-Plain.bmp

These are larger maps, no Battlemap format (I use these for online games or to plan the WM setup so the players cannot see my moves):
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Street%20with%20mall.bmp
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Battlefield-Grid.png
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Battlefield-NoGrid.png
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Church.png
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Universal%20Bunker.png
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/529658/Maps/Small%20Sleeper%20Vault.bmp


Last edited by pansophy on Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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derfinsterling

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Joined: 19 Jun 2008
Posts: 346

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool.

How large are the maps, dimension-wise? Do I have to print this on A3 (about twize the size of US Letter) or do they fit onto A4 (about the size of US Letter)?
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Enno

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Joined: 11 Jun 2009
Posts: 2623
Location: Ulm, Germany

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you use a graphic application like Gimp or Photoshop cut down his maps in 8x11 square pieces. Resize these parts to 1 inch per square.

8x11 inches fits nicely on a A4 sized printout.

Glue them together afterwards.

If you use a A3 printer, the pieces are 11x16 inches.

I published a few maps of mine here, here and here on RPGMapShare.
Some of them are "print ready" in PDF format.
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philth

Deuce


Joined: 17 Jan 2009
Posts: 87

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great work guys. you keep posting them, I'll keep downloading them. Already thought of some good uses.
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pansophy

No Cards!


Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

derfinsterling wrote:
Very cool.

How large are the maps, dimension-wise? Do I have to print this on A3 (about twize the size of US Letter) or do they fit onto A4 (about the size of US Letter)?


Well, on a Mac you just print out the Battlemaps on a A4 paper. I think it is scaled down a bit to fit the paper (96%), but the squares come out roughly 1 inch. The maps are 10x8 squares (for a battlemap).

Nearly all the posted maps are Battlemaps to keep things easy. Rolling Eyes
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pansophy

No Cards!


Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enno wrote:
If you use a graphic application like Gimp or Photoshop cut down his maps in 8x11 square pieces. Resize these parts to 1 inch per square.

8x11 inches fits nicely on a A4 sized printout.

Glue them together afterwards.

If you use a A3 printer, the pieces are 11x16 inches.


No need to do this for Battlemaps, they are already scaled by Dundjinni. Your step is only necessary for the larger maps (the bottom ones in my post).
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Enno

King of Clubs


Joined: 11 Jun 2009
Posts: 2623
Location: Ulm, Germany

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you use Dundjinni the application has a procedure for creating Battlemaps.

A map roughly 10x8 or 11x8 inches fits on letter or A4 paper nicely.

It was a tip for those, who downloaded a bigger map. There are some interesting sites like Dundjinni, RPGMapShare, Blu's Cave or MadMapper, where you can download such big maps.
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