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Custom Clockwork WNM Figure Bases

 
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Jordan Peacock

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Joined: 20 Jun 2008
Posts: 152
Location: Orlando, Florida

PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 4:43 am    Post subject: Custom Clockwork WNM Figure Bases Reply with quote

I've been working on some customized bases for some of my kitbashed minis for Wonderland No More (and other Victorian-era settings), going with a clockwork theme for now -- though later I might go with some checkerboards, mushrooms, etc.

Here are some photos for show 'n' tell so far.

Custom Homemade "Clockworkpunk" Bases - Work in Progress:

Here are examples of some of my work on custom "clockworkpunk" bases, starting with War Cast Studios "blank" 30mm resin bases (AKA "deep dish" bases), Magic Sculpt two-part resin epoxy putty, and pieces of scrap plastic.  The green plastic is from a grocery-store strawberry container that one of the players in my game group gave me.

In the picture above are the 5 30mm bases I have mostly done so far, though I'm still trying to touch up gaps and figure out the best way to handle rivets.  I've used Instant Mold to make temporary press-molds (and copies with Magic Sculpt), so that I can get a better idea of what final casts would look like.  It allowed me to see what I couldn't quite make out on the originals: "super glue" has THICKNESS when it dries, and my problem with some of my rivets was that it was creating a raised area around where I'd glued the rivets down, or even that runoff was filling in some gaps such as between finely-spaced gear teeth.  

I'm still working a few things out here.  The two leftmost bases in the front row are examples of where I've tried a different route to making "rivets."  Instead of taking crumbs of putty and gluing them on, letting it cure and then filing the tops down flat, I've tried applying a "strip" of putty for a frame piece, then smaller "crumbs" of putty as rivets -- then using a flat tool to mash the edges of the "rivet" down into the strip area around it, trying for a small, round rivet, and avoiding the necessity for super glue to hold it in place.  (Also, I think the smaller rivets look and paint up better.)

25mm and 40mm Clockworkpunk Base Work-in-Progress:

I've also been working on a 40mm base (using another War Cast Studios "blank" base as a starting point), and a 25mm "cogwheel" base (using pieces of plastic sprue to make the "teeth").   The cogwheel is still a long way off, since I have to Dremel the whole thing flat on top, and figure out how to do the interior -- but it's 25mm across, and I figure that it could act as a round 25mm base on its own for a smaller base option.

Painted Prototype Castings:

I went ahead and painted some of my "prototype casts" made with temporary Instant Molds and Magic Sculpt press-casting.  Here's a picture of some initial painting (much more washing and drybrushing and touch-up has been applied since then) of some of the casts.  

The top/rear base is meant to be an "Egyptian ruins" themed base that I started working on for a Soda Pop Miniatures "Egyptian Cat Girl" mini that my friend has. As of yet, I haven't thought of any good reason for it to be applicable for adventures in Wonderland. Wink


Reaper "#59009 Mad Scientist (Female)" miniature (Savage Worlds / Deadlands) with Clockworkpunk Prototype Base:

(link to pictures of unpainted original mini)

Here's an application of one of the "clockworkpunk" bases, with a Deadlands miniature I painted up to put on it. Although I haven't the fine hand, eyesight or patience to do the level of painting detail this figure deserves, I am still rather happy with how nicely the miniature paints up with a modest amount of effort. Smile I think another copy of this base might work just as well with a very late rabbit on it, given how the base support elements look at least vaguely like the hands of a clock.

I've also been using some of the War Cast Studio city (brick) street bases and wooden plank bases for some of my Wonderland miniatures conversions. I'm doing a bit of touch-up work on those, and now that I've got a better camera, I might try taking some close-up pictures later on.
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